The National Museum of Ireland – Country Life is a bit of a unique one. It’s the only branch of the National Museum located outside of Dublin, tucked away in Turlough, County Mayo.
We always thought it was a slightly random location for a national museum but after finding ourselves in the area and deciding to pop in for a look, we completely get it now. It’s set in a stunning estate, it’s completely free to enter and we were genuinely glad we made the stop. It’s a brilliant insight into a side of Ireland that is fast disappearing.
Where is the National Museum of Ireland – Country Life?
The National Museum of Ireland – Country Life is set within the gorgeous 30-acre Turlough Park estate. The nearest village is Turlough in County Mayo, just outside Castlebar on the N5 road.
It’s a good distance away from the other branches of the National Museum (which are all in Dublin), but it fits perfectly into a trip to the west. In fact, it’s only about a 20-minute drive from Westport House (which we visited on the same day!) so it’s very easy to combine both into one day trip! The Wild Atlantic Way is about a half-hour drive away.
Getting to the museum is straightforward, though having a car makes life much easier:
- By Car: This is the best option because public transport to the door is limited. There’s plenty of free parking on site. If you need to rent a car for your trip, we usually use Discover Cars to compare prices as rentals can get pricey in summer.
- By Train: There’s a train station in Castlebar on the Dublin to Westport line. We recommend checking Omio for times and tickets but keep in mind you will need to grab a taxi from the station out to the museum.
Since the museum is located in Turlough, the nearest town is Castlebar which is only 10 minutes away. The Breaffy House Resort is a great option here. It’s a beautiful old estate that matches the historic vibe of the museum perfectly. We’d suggest checking Booking.com for places to stay in Castlebar. There are some lovely spots.
What is the National Museum of Ireland – Country Life about?
The museum focuses on the period between 1850 and 1950 and shows various items from rural life in Ireland during that time. It is very much about the Ireland you’ll have seen in movies such as The Quiet Man, The Field and The Banshees of Inisherin. If you haven’t seen them, they’re essential viewing before a trip to the west of Ireland!
The beautiful, modern building is in contrast to the simpler life depicted inside. Spread across a number of floors, the museum is surprisingly bigger than what you expect from the outside. The building is cleverly built into the slope and as a result, doesn’t detract from the environment around it too much. It’s the type of place that Kevin McCloud would LOVE if it was on an episode of Grand Designs.
That environment is the grounds of Turlough House, built in the 1860s and owned by the Fitzgerald family until the 1990s when Mayo County Council bought it. The grounds are open to the public and feature a Victorian garden and playground. I can imagine it being quite pleasant on a nice day. We had to imagine when we went because it was raining!
What’s in the National Museum of Ireland: Country Life?
On entering the main museum building, you’re greeted by a display of clothing worn by Aran islanders in the late 19th century. We were interested to learn that Ireland doesn’t have distinctive national clothing except for those on the Aran Islands. It’s not an Aran jumper by the way!
There are a few items of native Aran costume you can try on if you’re so inclined. We got a great laugh trying to work out which way things go on. Is it a shawl? Is it a skirt? Who knows? Who cares!
The Galleries
The museum winds downwards over four floors, each dedicated to a different aspect of rural life. One of the first things you’ll notice is the scale of the exhibits. Look up and you’ll see full-sized Currachs (traditional fishing boats) and farming machinery suspended from the ceiling.
The Natural Environment
This section was fascinating because it shows just how difficult life was in rural Ireland. You’ll see the tools used for cutting turf in the bog, kelp harvesting from the Atlantic and the work involved in farming the rocky soil. It really highlights the resilience of the people who lived here.
Hearth & Home
This floor was our favourite. It recreates the interior of a traditional thatched cottage, centering on the open hearth which was the heart of the home. It’s crazy to think that for many people in rural Ireland, electricity and running water are relatively recent luxuries. Seeing the simple dressers, the settle beds and the religious iconography really transports you back to the time of The Quiet Man.
One of the great things about this section is that it’s interactive. You can pick up the heavy wicker baskets to see how items were carried to market, or sit on the Súgán chairs (made of straw) to test their strength. We love touching things in museums!
Festivals & Superstitions
This is the most unique part of the collection. It dives into the old customs, piseogs (superstitions), and traditions that governed rural life. Keep an eye out for the Strawboys and Wren Boys costumes. These were groups who would disguise themselves in elaborate straw masks to dance at weddings or hunt the wren on St. Stephen’s Day. Seeing the costumes up close is actually a little bit spooky!
Turlough Park House
Once you’re finished in the modern building, you can walk across the courtyard to Turlough Park House. Some of the rooms on the ground floor like the Drawing Room and Library have been restored and are open to the public.
It’s a classic Big House where the wealthy Fitzgerald family lived. We were interested to learn that many of these landlords actually spent much of their time in London, only visiting these massive estates occasionally. Walking from the museum (which depicts extreme poverty and hard labour) into this mansion is a stark contrast. It’s a pity more of the house isn’t open but it’s definitely worth a look to see how the other half lived.
Practical Information
- Opening Hours: The museum is generally open Tuesday to Saturday (10am–5pm) and Sundays (2pm–5pm). It’s closed on Mondays (including Bank Holidays).
- Admission: Free entry.
- Parking: There’s free on-site parking.
- Facilities: There is a café and a gift shop on site.
The Verdict on the National Museum of Ireland – Country Life
The National Museum of Ireland – Country Life is well worth a visit. We were genuinely surprised by how much we enjoyed it, especially considering we only popped in on a whim.
It’s an interesting look at an integral part of our history and the fact that it’s completely free to enter makes it one of the best value days out in County Mayo. Whether you’re from a rural area yourself or a city slicker, you’ll look back in admiration at how people survived despite their struggles in a period categorised by poverty and great change.
Visit and learn something. You’ll be glad you did.
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