Luxembourg City is one of those places that we’ve always wanted to visit but never really got around to for various reasons. We briefly thought about visiting on a day trip from Brussels but the train journey there and back didn’t make much sense for just one day.
There were no direct flights from Dublin for a number of years until Luxair reintroduced the route, having cancelled it during the last recession. More recently, Ryanair began flights to Luxembourg and with prices suddenly quite cheap, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to book a city break. If you’re planning your own trip to the Grand Duchy, this Luxembourg City Travel Guide has everything you’ll need to know!
A Little Bit About Luxembourg City
Luxembourg‘s the second smallest country in the EU (after Malta) and is bordered by Belgium, France, and Germany. It’s the only country in the world to have a Grand Duke as its head of state and is one of the wealthiest per capita countries in the world.
It’s very international, with over 47% of its population coming from outside the country. Luxembourg was one of the founding six members of the European Coal and Steel Community, the precursor to the European Union. The currency is the Euro and the main language is Luxembourgish, though most people speak French, German, or English fluently.
Luxembourg City is the capital and the biggest city. It’s regarded as one of the de facto capitals of the EU, home to the Court of Justice of the European Union and the Secretariat of the European Parliament. It has the highest GDP per capita of any city in the world according to the IMF and is consistently ranked as the safest city in the world by Mercer.
Getting to Luxembourg City
Luxembourg City is served by the nearby Luxembourg Airport (LUX). Luxair tends to be a little on the expensive side in our opinion so if you’re after cheap and cheerful, Ryanair has a few routes to the airport from around Europe.
There’re buses into the city as well as the modern Luxembourg City tramway. A huge bonus is that public transport within Luxembourg is completely free! This applies to trains, trams, and buses throughout the entire country. It’s worth noting that this only covers second class travel, so you’ll still need to pay if you want to sit in first class on the trains. We got a taxi which was just over €40 for four of us with luggage but the free tram is definitely a great option.
Trains are also quite handy for getting to Luxembourg and there’re direct routes to Paris, Brussels, and other cities in neighbouring countries. If you’re planning a multi-city trip, use Omio to compare train times and prices across borders.
Where to Stay in Luxembourg City
We stayed at Hotel Le Chatelet, a quaint little hotel about a 5-minute walk from the train station (imaginatively called Luxembourg Railway Station). We actually chose it specifically because it had a room for four, which was hard enough to find elsewhere in the city.
The hotel was in a quiet suburb of Luxembourg City next to the Pétrusse Valley Park but still close enough to shops, and places to eat. The street near the train station has lots of restaurants and leads to the Passerelle, a stunning viaduct which takes you into the old walled part of the city. It was a very cosy room and the staff were all very friendly.
We’d recommend checking Booking.com for the best rates for accommodation in Luxembourg.
Best Things to Do In Luxembourg City
We were lucky enough to be in Luxembourg City when the entire city was covered in snow. Although it was cold for the duration of our visit, we had checked the weather in advance and packed accordingly. The city looked amazing in the snow, especially looking from the higher parts down onto the lower valley.
If you want to get your bearings quickly without braving the cold too much, the Luxembourg City Bus Tour is a great way to kick off your Luxembourg City short break. It takes you through the historic district and out to the modern Kirchberg area, which saves you a lot of walking!
Grund District
One of the lower parts of the city’s called Grund, a lovely spot for a night-time stroll. It’s known as the fairy tale district and it’s not hard to see why. Apart from the picturesque views along the river, it has a few pubs, and restaurants and would be perfect if you’re after a nice, romantic meal. (We weren’t!).
The Luxembourg National Museum of Natural History is located here too. We decided against a visit, although we’re told it’s quite good as far as natural history museums go.
Pfaffenthal Lift
One thing we’d definitely recommend is taking the Pfaffenthal Lift. It’s a glass-walled observation deck with a lift down to Grund in the lower part of the city and it really does have a stunning view over the valley. Best of all, it’s completely free to use! It even has a glass floor if you’re brave enough to step out that far.
We took the lift down and then walked across to the other side which took us into the Parc des Trois Glands (Three Acorns Park). It was all very Narnia because of the snow.
European District
Walking through the Parc des Trois Glands takes you to the Kirchberg quarter which is home to lots of European institutions including The European Court of Justice, parts of the European Commission, and the European Investment Bank. Kirchberg has a lot of hotels but we’d recommend not staying in this part of town if you’re planning on visiting the tourist sites. It’s all a little bit high rise and corporate which is not what Luxembourg City is about. Fine for European business or visiting the European Convention Center, but not for rambling around the sights.
Fort Thüngen
Fort Thüngen is located in the park and is home to the Musée Dräi Eechelen (Three Acorns Museum). The museum tells the history of the city and country of Luxembourg from the Burgundian conquest in 1443 to the construction of the Adolphe Bridge in 1903, so TripAdvisor said anyway. We didn’t really have time for a visit beyond taking a few pics (and wanting to use the loo!).
Word of advice at this juncture: don’t eat yellow snow.
The Mudam Luxembourg Museum of Modern Art and Philharmonie Luxembourg concert hall are nearby if that type of thing takes your fancy.
Casemates Du Bock
We were hoping to see the Casemates Du Bock, the 18th-century tunnels used as shelters during World War II. When we visited, they were closed for maintenance, but these days they often stay open during the winter with reduced hours so it’s definitely worth checking before you go! We’ve been told that you should book in advance too.
It’s a shame we missed it because it’s widely considered one of the highlights of a visit to Luxembourg City. The area nearby is really nice though and the views are amazing. Just make sure to bring a good pair of walking shoes!
Ville Haute
Within Ville Haute, the historic walled city, you’ll find a really nice mix of old architecture and modern shopping. If you’re looking to pick up a few bits, there’re lots of high street names like H&M and Zara. If you fancy doing a bit of window shopping instead, there’re also plenty of exclusive designer boutiques like Louis Vuitton.
The whole area is lovely to just stroll around for an afternoon. When you get hungry, there’re some great restaurants dotted all over the place. You’ll find the best atmosphere around Place d’Armes which is the main central square. It’s surrounded by cafes, and restaurants with outdoor seating so it’s a great spot to grab a coffee, rest your legs, and do a bit of people-watching. As Kolyn would say, there’s good vibes.
The Grand Ducal Palace
Most of the buildings in this area are really nice, especially the Grand Ducal Palace. There’re guided tours in the summer but not winter. They probably don’t want you trudging all that dirty snow in on their lovely clean carpets. It’s got two armed guards outside so the Grand Duke must be a big deal. It’s lovely from the outside so if you do go and see the inside, let us know and send pics. Try to steal a lamp or a salt shaker or something. Interesting fact: Luxembourg is the only country in the world where they have a Grand Duke as head of state BUT Lithuania had one too and we got to see inside the Palace of the Grand Dukes in Lithuania during our Vilnius city break too!
Nationalmusée um Fëschmaart
The Nationalmusée um Fëschmaart (formerly the National Museum of History and Art) is just around the corner and is actually a great way to spend a few hours. We were delighted to get out of the cold.
It’s free to enter and split across six floors. Start at the bottom and work your way up (as the nun said to the bishop). The museum retraces the history of Luxembourg, from prehistory to the Middle Ages. Fort Thüngen then takes over the rest of the story.
Where to Eat & Drink in Luxembourg City
We found the food in Luxembourg to be absolutely lovely although it’s definitely a bit on the pricey side. Because it was absolutely freezing when we visited, we mostly just wanted proper comfort food to warm us up.
If you’re visiting in the winter, you have to try Gromperekichelcher (crispy fried potato pancakes). You’ll usually find them at the markets and they’re unbelievable. For a sweet treat, keep an eye out for Verwurelter. They’re traditional, fluffy little sugar donuts that are popular in the winter and they were exactly what we needed to keep us going in the cold!
Cards and phone payments are the norm here so you won’t need cash, and for tipping, simply rounding up the bill to the nearest five or ten Euro is usually the way to go.
Our Restaurant Recommendation
We treated ourselves to a meal at Brasserie du Cercle, which is located right in the Cercle Cité building. It has huge windows looking out over Place d’Armes so it’s a brilliant spot to just people-watch and chill out for an hour or two. If you go for the Menu du Jour it’s much better value than the main menu.
Our Pub Recommendation
For a proper local pint, head down to the Grund and find Scott’s Pub. It’s right on the riverbank and has a great atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot for a pint of Bofferding or Diekirch to escape the cold after a long day of walking.
Luxembourg City Travel Guide FAQs
Is Luxembourg City expensive to visit?
It can be! Luxembourg is one of the wealthiest countries in the world so accommodation and eating out will set you back a bit more than a trip to Spain or Portugal. However, the fact that all public transport is completely free across the entire country saves you a fortune on airport transfers, buses, and trains during your Luxembourg City short break.
How many days do you need in Luxembourg City?
Because the city is quite compact, a two-night stay is usually plenty to see the main sights, walk the walls, and enjoy a few nice meals. If you’re planning to take the free trains out into the countryside to see places like Vianden Castle, you’ll probably want to stretch your trip to three days.
Is public transport actually free in Luxembourg?
Yes! In 2020, Luxembourg became the first country in the world to make all public transport completely free for both locals and tourists. You don’t need a ticket to hop on the buses, trains, or trams. You just walk on and take a seat. Just remember that you’ll still need a ticket if you’re planning on travelling first class.
Do they speak English in Luxembourg City?
Yes, most people do. The official languages are Luxembourgish, French, and German but almost everyone we interacted with spoke great English. You won’t have any trouble getting around or ordering food in the restaurants.
Is Luxembourg City easy to walk around?
The Ville Haute (historic walled city) is very pedestrian-friendly and lovely to stroll around. Just keep in mind that the city is built across a deep valley so there’re quite a few steep hills and steps if you’re heading down to the Grund district. Make sure you pack a comfortable pair of shoes and make use of the free Pfaffenthal Lift to save your legs! Don’t slip if it’s snowing!
Why Luxembourg City Is Perfect for a Short Break
Overall, we really loved Luxembourg City. We’re big fans of small countries and Luxembourg is right up there with our favourites. The walled city is great to stroll around and browse.
The food was lovely, although a little on the expensive side. However, because public transport is now completely free across the whole country, it balances out the budget quite nicely. You save a fortune on trains and buses, which leaves more room for nice dinners!
There wasn’t a whole load to do, especially given the weather, but we’re okay with that. We enjoyed just walking around and taking it in. If we were to go back, we’d probably book a Guided Walking Tour to get a bit more historical context on the Casemates and the Old Town. We’d probably try get out into the countryside too.
When planning a Luxembourg City short break, it probably wouldn’t be the type of place you’d go for a stag or hen party. It’s definitely more suited to couples or solo travellers who want to check out somewhere laid back and friendly on the eye. Give it a go. You won’t be disappointed.
